A participatory research on NCGS: are bread and pasta produced by farmers and manufacturers different?
Résumé
The number of people suffering from non-celiac gluten sensitivity (NCGS) has increased during the last forty years. About 10% of French people claim to have disorders when eating wheat products and tend to avoid them. However, some people suffering from NCGS may eat some wheat products made by peasant-millers, peasant-bakers or peasant-pasta makers. An analysis of farmers' practices pointed out similarities, such as the use of "ancient" or local varieties, grown in organic conditions, stone milled and transformed with sourdough for bread and in mild conditions for pasta. Involving researchers from several disciplines (sociology, agronomy, technology, biochemistry), and a large diversity of actors (farmers, consumers, doctors, sick people, etc.), a participatory project was implemented to understand which differences between farmers' and manufacturer's practices could be linked to NCGS. Almost 500 consumers filled a survey on their cereal products consumption and among them, 38 clearly sensitive were deeply interviewed. On a sociological point of view, people suffering from NCGS are mainly young women, at least 3 years are necessary to make a diagnosis after the first appearance of symptoms and 26 persons on 38 could re-eat cereal products issued from farms and short chains. To go further, we purchased and prepared bread and pasta according different modalities and we analysed them. The biochemical comparison between farmers' breads and industrial type products shows that the first ones, when they are made with flours issued from stone milling, leavened with sourdough, after a long fermentation and baked in a wood oven have more easily extractable proteins in a buffer containing detergent (SDS) and more digestible proteins. Similar trends were found for pasta made with stone milled flours and dried at ambient temperature.
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